iZotope Spire Studio review

REVIEW – There’s no right or wrong way to record music. In fact, taking you out of the zone is the main thing that should be universally avoided. Spire Studio from iZotope is a new product that seems to have been developed specifically to make sure that doesn’t happen.

What is it?

Spire Studio is a recording interface that harnesses the power of your phone touchscreen while minimizing the typical interactions to let you focus on your music. They’ve also packed in a bunch of cool features and portability to boot. Sound good? We agree, so together with my son Satchel, we gave it a run through to see if it lives up to its claims.

Hardware specs

Weight: 1.6lbs
Dimensions: ~4.8 x 4.4 x 3.4″
Inputs: 2 XLR/TS combo jacks, 48v phantom power
Outputs: 2.5mm headphone jacks
Sample Rate/Bit Depth: 48kHz/24-bit
Wifi: 802.11 b/g/n w/ 2.4GHz
Power Supply: Universal power adapter
Battery: Internal rechargeable lithium ion
Battery Life: 4+ hours
OS Support: Android, iOS

What’s in the box?

  • Spire Studio
  • Power supply
  • Quickstart guide

Design and features

Straight out of the box, the quality is evident. Spire Studio is cylindrical design with a metal construction and some significant heft. The combination of materials and surfaces feels balanced and intriguing at the same time. The rubber feet give it a solid stance on any surface.

The top or face has a circular, segmented LED panel that’s angled toward you, along with five physical buttons. Record and Play buttons are most prominent, being evenly split in the center of the device. At the bottom, you’ll find buttons for New Song, Soundcheck and Volume easily accessible and still easy to press.

On the front, a built-in microphone is behind a protective metal grill with a 3.5mm jack just below for easily connecting a pair of headphones.

The back panel sports a pair of combo inputs that combine XLR and 1/4 inputs expanding your connection possibilities. Input 1 disables the front mic if you connect a microphone and there’s a corresponding push button for toggling 48v phantom power should you need it. An additional headphone jack at the top, power supply jack and power button round out the panel at the bottom.

The built-in battery is an excellent addition as it means you can record for up to 4 hours, even if you’re nowhere near an outlet. Now creativity really can strike whenever it wants. Possibly the coolest and most useful feature is the Soundcheck button. A single press and Spire Studio listens to your surroundings and optimizes the microphone settings to your surroundings for the best possible recording parameters. Very cool. Here’s a video of that.

Setup

Getting started is pretty easy. Download the app from the requisite store for the OS on your phone or tablet and follow the prompts. It will ask you to power on Spire Studio (Make sure the Studio is fully charged or at least plugged in) and then go into settings on your device to connect to the Wifi broadcast by Spire.

Bounce back to the app and give it the permissions it requires. You’re now set up. If you need to adjust anything you can make adjustments within the app settings shown here on the left, or the device settings on the right.

Performance

Spire Studio is pretty fun to use and also very visual as the LEDs provide visual feedback as to what’s going on. Take a look.

Powering Up

Powering Down

At startup you will be dropped right into recording mode. You’ll want to connect any electrical instruments to the combo jacks on the back of the unit or just rely on the built-in mic if you’re singing or playing acoustic. Hit record and the onboard mic does its magic and the input jacks do the same. When you’re finished hit record again to stop. Here’s how that looks, with a demonstration of the New Song button which also starts recording mode.

If you hit record again, it will create a new track which you can then later mix within the app. To listen, make sure your project is selected in the app and then hit play on the app or on the device. You will need to connect headphones to one to be able to hear playback.

If you’re looking for some help keeping time, there’s a built-in metronome that is loud enough to hear through while playing and yet magically does not get captured in the recording. Here’s how it works.

When it comes time to mix some tracks together, the trim function is pretty key. Here’s how the app handles that.

Spire Studio recognizes different devices, or at least different accounts. When I connected there were no songs in the project library, but my first recording showed up as Project 6 which makes sense later as Satchel said he saved a handful of things. Your recordings are tied to your account, so you can switch back and forth between a tablet and a phone if that’s your thing. Just know that on the second device you’ll need to “register” with the same account info as you did your first device since there’s not a “login” option.

Satch was able to feel comfortable with the system pretty quickly and worked up this little Sandman mix complete with eight tracks. It’s cool that in the video you can see the segmented LED display correspond to the different tracks.

As for listening to what you’ve recorded, you ideally want balanced audio playback. Headphones are best for this and it makes sense that Spire provided 3.5mm jacks for connecting them. However, the circumference of the Studio is large enough where some extra height could have accounted for a down-firing speaker to provide some kind of on-device playback. You can definitely plug in an aux cable to a portable speaker as I did in the above video, but a built-in option would have been nice.

What I like

  • Quality and precision build of the device
  • Easy to use controls
  • Battery for recording on the go

What needs to be improved

  • Printed manual – Felt missing at this price
  • Speaker option for playback

Final thoughts

There’s a lot more to discover with the iZotope Spire Studio. It’s a powerful tool and really does streamline the recording experience, letting you just get down to the creative task of recording. It’s solidly built and I can see this outlasting other options out there by a good bit. Satch will continue using it over the next few weeks and we’ll update this post with some additional thoughts and sounds soon. In the meantime, here’s a parting vid I wasn’t expecting to see that had me laughing.

Price: $349
Where to buy: Spire and Amazon
Source: The sample of this product was provided by iZotope.

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iZotope Spire Studio review originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on December 29, 2018 at 9:30 am.

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New Age Enclosures Raspberry Pi 3 Tinker Case review

REVIEW – You can find Raspberry Pi 3 cases all over the Internet.  They are mostly all good, and mostly all priced the same – $15.  New Age Enclosures is looking to break out from the pack with a high quality, durable case that costs less.  Is that possible?  Read on to find out…

Most people buy a Raspberry Pi bundle when they are getting started.  Bundles usually include the board itself, a power supply and heat sinks, a micro-SD card with NOOB, and the same basic black case that comes in 3 parts.  If you are a school or other organization who buys the Pi in bulk, you are almost always on the lookout for a solid case that’s a bargain.  New Age Enclosures – already selling some pretty nice specialty cases like weather-proof utility enclosures – has created a Pi case that starts at $6.50 and goes down from there, depending on how many you want to buy.

Personally, I prefer a 2 part case over the ubiquitous 3 part cases that come in every bundle.  In my opinion, there are fewer opportunities to mount the Pi incorrectly with the 2 part case.  It does require, though, a more exacting manufacturing process because the board has to fit without having too much “free space” inside the case.

The next few pictures show the board mounted and the case made ready to deploy.

As you can see the case is a perfect fit for the Pi 3+.  The board went in smoothly and easily, and the top snapped in without a struggle.  The unit feels secure.  And there are a couple of very nice touches – first, there are mounting holes in the case so you can secure the board to the case itself.  Most other cases on the market rely on everything being properly set and then the tension from the case snapping together.  If you are using a Pi in an industrial or educational setting, this added bit of security is a very good thing.

The other nice bit is the inclusion of mounting holes on the bottom of the case.  Your Pi can now be mounted on a wall or other surface.  If I could add anything, I would love to see New Age make a VESA mounting plate that would use these mounting points to put 1 or more Pi cases on the back of a monitor.

I did have one concern, though – on initial examination, I did not see what I thought would be adequate ventilation.  Your average Pi case has a top that looks like a raspberry that has been shot through with buckshot.  So I hooked my Pi up to my monitor and played Donkey Kong for nearly an hour.  That’s called research, and I am happy to take the bullet for you.  After many barrel mishaps, the Pi did not overheat and the case was no warmer or cooler than any other case I’ve had.  So the two ventilation grooves on the top of the case seem to be a nice compromise.

The case comes in black, white, clear, translucent blue, translucent smoke grey and translucent red – the color I have.

What I like

  • Precisely engineered for the Raspberry Pi 3 series
  • Sturdy
  • Comes in colors other than black and clear

What needs to be improved

  • None, really

Final thoughts

If you are looking for a case – or a case of cases – New Age Enclosures has you covered.  If I could get a VESA mount this would be the perfect solution for all my Pi needs.

Price: $6.50 (lower pricing in quantity)
Where to buy: New Age Enclosures
Source: The sample for this review was provided by New Age Enclosures.

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New Age Enclosures Raspberry Pi 3 Tinker Case review originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on December 28, 2018 at 12:21 pm.

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The OYO Fitness Gym review


REVIEW – I have lost count of how many portable gyms and gym-like devices I have purchased over the years that have promised to fit into my busy schedule and to provide a relatively quick full body workout that will keep me fit. One way or another they have fallen short of the goal either because they did not live up to their promise or they were not as portable or as easy to use as expected. I have all but given up on these types of devices and I use my treadmill as much as I can. But now, I see a new device that has gained my interest enough for me to try one more time. Let’s see if the OYO Fitness Gym can earn any redemption for its counterparts or if it ends up in the historic pile in the corner of my storage room.

What is it?

The OYO Fitness Gym LE is a total body gym that weighs 2 lbs. but produces up to 25 lbs. of resistance for training and exercise. It can be folded to fit in your EDC bag or large pocket so that you can use it on the go wherever and whenever you choose to.

What’s in the box


1 x OYO Personal Gym LE
1 x Door Attachment
3 x Flexpacks
2 x Leg Attachments
1 x Product Guide

Design and features

When you open the OYO Fitness box, the inside cover reveals a quick start guide describing how to attach the flexpacks.

The picture below shows the OYO Fitness Gym with 2 flexpacks attached. The first flexpack must be a 10lb resistance pack and a total of 3 flexpacks come with the gym. OYO Fitness does not sell additional flexpacks separately. You can also see that in the second picture below, the gym can be collapsed into a very portable package.


In the close-up picture below of the flexpack, on one side there is the center spindle with internal gears that lines up with the other flexpacks which allow them to connect to each other. The red arrow shows the marking for the correct orientation to add each flexpack to the other. There are 3 holes that accept the “legs” from other flexpacks as a part of the securing mechanism. On the flipside of the flexpack, there is the gear spindle with external that protrudes and connects to another flexpack and three notched “legs” that also connect and secure the flexpacks to each other.



The following picture shows the 2 included straps that connect to each side of the OYO gym and allow the gym to be strapped to your legs or arms for different types of exercises.




The other included strap allows you to attach to a door or pole or other objects for various exercises.

Performance

When I opened the OYO Fitness gym box, I was pleasantly surprised at the quality of each component and the compact size. The instructions are clear and you can get started right away. Adding and removing the Flexpacks to adjust the resistance is quite easy and the basic exercises can all be performed with just the OYO and the Flexpacks. OYO includes straps that allow you to attach the gym to a door or any such structure to accomplish pulley type exercises that you would normally do with a larger gym system. At first, I was skeptical about whether or not this compact device could actually provide enough resistance to even make most folks break a sweat, but I soon found out that it is quite capable of doing so and very versatile. It gives me a full workout and can be used by the enthusiast, the occasional visitor, or the fitness fanatic.


The following are some of the exercises performed by my model:





One issue I did experience is that the rotation of the spindle with the gears in the center of the flexpack changed and I could not attach it to any other flexpack. Once I recognized what had happened. I used an adjustable wrench to turn it back to the correct orientation. It did take some effort to do so.

What I like

  • The compact size
  • The versatility
  • The build quality
  • The portability

What can be improved

  • Ability to add more flexpacks
  • Flexpack spindles go out of orientation and tools are needed to fix them

Final thoughts

With each day that goes by, life gets even busier and dedicating time to workout without interruptions or within my hectic schedule often leads to a great plan that becomes very short-lived. As I get older, using heavy weights or even many of the machines and equipment that a conventional gym offers is not as desirable or as necessary as it used to be as when I was much younger. While the OYO Fitness Gyum does not replace a Planet Fitness or that type of gym, my experience with it has been great for my goals. I am able to keep my muscles working, do some resistance and cardio (via repetitions) training and there is enough built-in versatility to get a complete fitness workout. It is not a bodybuilding gym but it fulfills its purpose of allowing me to workout whenever and wherever my schedule allows and it is compact enough to go with me without becoming a burden. This is another type of device that is individually subjective, and while it may not be a fit for all, it does a great job for me, and enough so that they get two thumbs up. Looking forward to the next version with the ability to add even more resistance.

Price: $149.95 (Other versions are available at different prices)
Where to buy: OYO Fitness  and Amazon
Source: The sample for this review was provided by OYO Fitness

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The OYO Fitness Gym review originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on December 28, 2018 at 9:00 am.

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TaoTronics TT-BH042 active noise cancelling Bluetooth headphones review

REVIEW – On a recent road trip, I frequented a number of gas stations and was amazed at the gamut of phone-related audio choices, even in the smallest of establishments. I imagine many, like me, either forget or break their headphones. I’m always looking for versions that can withstand my rough treatment and give me a good balance of comfort and features. Let’s see how TauTronics TT-BH042 Active Noise Cancelling Bluetooth headphones can fit the bill…

What is it?

TaoTronics model TT-BH042 are flexible, noise-canceling stereo Bluetooth headphones.   

Hardware Specs:

  • Noise Cancellation: Active Noise Cancellation (ANC)
  • 13mm “Electro-Dynamic” speaker drivers
  • 20-20KHZ frequency response
  • “Micro Electrical-Mechanical System (MEMS)” microphone
  • Bluetooth 4.2V, HSP
  • 8-hour battery life with Active Noise Cancelling on, 16 hours off

What’s in the Box?

  • TaoTronics wireless active noise canceling headphones
  • USB charging cable
  • 6 ear tips (3 pairs of small medium and large)
  • 6 ear hooks  (3 pairs)
  • User guide

Design and features:

TaoTronics, a division of SunValley Group, founded in 2007, manufactures a myriad of Bluetooth speakers and headphones. An Amazon search pulls up dozens of Gadgeteer goodies.

The TT-BH042 headphones arrived in a simple grey box adorned with the TauTronics logo.

Inside, the headphones nestled in a plastic form-fitting cradle.

In the cavity formed under the plastic carrier, bags containing the user manual and spare parts were held.

A USB power supply is not included and the charging cord is only about six inches long, so I plugged them into a spare Micro-USB I had available. A friendly red LED illuminated to let me know the headphones were sipping juice. The LED changes to blue when charging is complete.

Out of the box, the headphones only took an hour or so to complete charging, the LED changing to blue.

The fit of the headphones is secure and comfortable.

The assembly connection the battery and Bluetooth receiver is flexible and very comfortable to wear. I can be rough on my headphones and have broken previous pairs comprised of rigid plastic. I found the flexible design to be much more forgiving.

Following the instructions in the manual, the pairing was simple and only took a moment. The manual states the headphones will remember previously connected devices, but this connection can be deleted should the need arise.

I connected the headphones and voice prompts indicated the power was on and connected. The first thing I noticed without music playing was a sudden absence of background sounds. The noise cancellation works very well and might be even better with better sealing ear tips.

I pulled up a diverse playlist and cranked up the volume. Fidelity is generally good, I wouldn’t consider it audiophile quality. I found the bass a bit muffled for my tastes.  However, I found the noise cancellation particularly valuable during quiet passages of classical music.

Next, I made a lengthy call to my mother. She said fidelity on the receiving end was excellent, better than other Bluetooth headsets I’ve used.

For over an hour, the headphones stayed comfortable and firmly in place, no matter my movements. These would be ideal for someone who listens to tunes while working out and are IPX5 splashproof making them a solid choice.

 What I like:

  • Flexible design is robust and comfortable
  • Excellent Active Noise Cancelling
  • Very long battery life
  • Reasonably priced
  • Excellent microphone voice quality

What needs to be improved?

  • Audio quality for music, but your mileage may vary

Final thoughts:

Bluetooth headphones are ubiquitous, but finding a pair that matches one’s particular tastes can be daunting. TaoTronics’s TT-BH042s are solidly built, and I really appreciate their Dave-proof flexible design, excellent noise canceling and battery life. With adequate audio and my mom loving the microphone fidelity, the TT-BH042s have earned a worthy place in my Gadget bag.

Price: $45.99
Where to buy: Amazon
Source: The sample for this review was provided by TaoTronics.

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TaoTronics TT-BH042 active noise cancelling Bluetooth headphones review originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on December 27, 2018 at 9:00 am.

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Momentum Aria LED Floodlight with WiFi Camera review

REVIEW – We have a Netatmo Presence Outdoor Security Camera and floodlight that has some blind spots that we’d like to fill with another motion detecting camera/floodlight. We wanted the new camera to detect and hopefully scare away any would-be thieves. Then recently, I was offered the Momentum Aria LED Floodlight with WiFi Camera to review. We mounted the Aria on the corner of our house such that the camera diagonally overlooked our driveway, front yard, and the road in front of our house. Did it detect and scare off any would-be intruders? Well, if you consider an intruder a thing on four wheels that drove away on the road in front of our house when the floodlight came on, then yes. But, it had difficulty with detecting people in our yard and driveway. In our attempts to troubleshoot the problems, we now have a camera that doesn’t detect motions anymore. What happened? Well, that’s a good question. Read on, to find out about all our attempts to try to make the Aria work.

What is it?

The Momentum Aria LED Floodlight with WiFi Camera is an outdoor home security device that has motion detecting floodlights and a camera such that when the motion sensor is triggered, it will send you a notification, the camera will automatically record the movement, and the floodlight will turn on. All this is done through rules that you create. Aria connects to your home’s WiFi network so that you can see live video and recordings, speak to the person on the camera via two-way audio, manually record videos and photos, and control the floodlight and siren through the Momentum app.

Hardware specs

Camera: HD Camera with 1080P sensor
Field of View: 140° wide-angle lens
Motion Detection: 270° motion detection
Floodlight / Night Vision: 5,000 Total Lumen LEDs / Infrared LEDs with Automatic Night Vision Mode
Siren: 110-decibel alarm
SD Card Slot: Micro SD slot (up to 128GB SD Card)
Connectivity: 802.11 b/g/n WiFi connection @ 2.4GHz
Audio: Two-way audio with built-in speaker and microphone
Dimensions: Height: 7.13”, Width: 11.40”, Thickness: 7.13”
Weight: 78.40 oz (4.9 lbs.)
Power: 100-240V
Warranty: 1-Year Limited Warranty

What’s in the box?

Momentum Aria Floodlight Camera (with mounting base)
Weatherproof Gasket
Screwdriver
Mounting Bracket
Wire Nuts (3)
#8 Long Bracket Screw (1)
#10, #8, #6 Short Bracket Screws (2 each)
Aria Quick Start Guide
Aria User Manual

Design and features

The above photo shows the camera of the Momentum Aria LED Floodlight with WiFi Camera. The body of the 1080p camera is made of matte black plastic. Just below the 140-degree wide-angle camera lens is an LED status light. Here is the list of status lights and what they mean:

  • Solid Red Light: Aria is booting up.
  • Slow Blinking Red Light: Disconnected from Wi-Fi.
  • Double Blinking Blue Light: Ready to connect to Wi-Fi.
  • Blinking Blue Light: Aria is connected to Wi-Fi.
  • Solid Blue Light: User is currently live streaming.

Below the LED status light are two rectangular IR LEDs and right under the Momentum (“M”) logo is the tiny microphone. The white plastic dome beneath the camera contains the PIR (Pyroelectric or “Passive” InfraRed) sensor which is used to detect 270 degrees of motion. One side of the camera has a speaker. The underside of the camera has the QR code for the Aria and a button that releases the bottom cover of the camera. Also, notice that this version of the Aria is a soffit mount version. The metal arms that hold the camera and floodlights have ball joints (common to both the soffit and wall mount versions), but the soffit mounted version has another adjustable joint with a wingnut on each arm that allows the angle of the camera and floodlights to be oriented as required to allow the Aria to be mounted horizontally on your house.

Removing the bottom cover of the camera gives you access to the micro SD card and the Reset button which is hidden beneath a small cover as shown in the red box in the photo above. Note: This configuration is different for the wall mounted version. The Aria has two LED floodlights. The housing for the floodlights is made out of metal. The base of the Aria is also made of metal. In this view of the Aria, you can see the mounting base release button. This view of the Aria reveals the wiring for the device and the mounting-base screw that holds the base of the Aria to its mounting base (the mounting base is plastic).

Setup

The installer of my Gadgeteer devices that require electrical wiring work is my engineer husband, Rob. So I’ll let him tell you about the installation of the Aria. His writing is in blue.

Installation of the Aria is pretty straightforward and should be able to be completed in less than an hour, assuming you already have a flood light installed. The version of the Aria we have is designed to be mounted in a horizontally oriented box installed in the soffit of your home. Note that the Aria also comes in a configuration that would be mounted to a vertically oriented box installed in the exterior wall of your home, and the installation steps would be essentially identical.

The first step is to remove the existing floodlight. This would involve turning off the power to the circuit (at the breaker box) and physically removing and disconnecting the floodlight. In our case, we did not have an existing floodlight so we installed a new circuit and electrical box in the soffit for this purpose. I would recommend hiring an electrician to do this. Installing a soffit electrical box is significantly easier than installing a new vertically oriented box in an exterior wall (especially if your exterior wall is brick, like ours). This is the advantage of the Aria’s horizontal mount configuration. Once the electrical box is accessible, the first step is to attach the mounting bracket to the box. The Aria includes this bracket and several different size mounting screws to accommodate various box types. Note that the box will be carrying the weight of the Aria (which is almost 5 lbs and heavier than most typical floodlights), so it is important that it be robust enough to carry the weight and that the box is appropriately attached. A metal box is preferred in this application. NOTE: If you install a metal box, the box itself must be properly grounded. More on that laterThe next step is to install the gasket, which has an adhesive side to provide a seal to the surface around the electrical box. Proper installation of the gasket is vital since this is what keeps water from getting inside the Aria. It should be positioned such that it is centered over the box. I used the mounting screw to ensure it was properly centered, removed the adhesive backing, and pressed it into position. Also note that I rotated the gasket slightly to keep it from covering the bracket mounting screws (although that was probably not necessary), and also to ensure the largest possible opening for the wires.

In the soffit installation shown above, since the soffit siding panels contain large grooves, it will be necessary to seal the opening at the groove under the gasket to ensure a watertight installation. Some exterior-rated silicone is ideal for this purpose.

Next, it is time to connect the wires from the mounting base. It will be necessary to remove the mounting base from the Aria assembly (it comes installed) which involves removing a small mounting base screw from one side and pushing a release button on the other side. The mounting base was difficult to remove and it seems to have been sealed at one location with some silicone. Also, there’s an O-ring inside the base of the Aria that fits against the plastic mounting base (that keeps water from getting in between the mounting base and base of the Aria), and this O-ring popped out when I removed the mounting base. I used a small screwdriver and was able to get it reseated.

Once the mounting base is removed, it can be installed, but before doing this it is important to determine the orientation of the Aria (meaning the direction the camera and lights will face and the location of the camera with respect to the floodlights). The orientation of the mounting base determines the orientation of the camera. It is important to do this now because that will determine which side of the bracket you attach the wires. For the wall-mounted configuration, the orientation will be obvious; the two lights will be above the camera and rotating the entire assembly will likely not be necessary.


However, for the soffit mounted configuration, the direction the camera will need to face could vary, and you could install it with the camera either in the back (as shown in the first photo above) or with the camera in front (as shown in the second photo above). Unfortunately, we can’t say for sure which orientation is better …. we’ve had troubles getting this to work in both positions.

Note that the base has a hole where the wires are connected to a terminal strip that the light fixture itself “plugs” into. Where this hole ends up will determine where the wires need to be. After you make the wiring connections and install the base, you can rotate it a few degrees for final positioning, but you won’t be able to rotate it 180 degrees if you decide to switch the orientation. Rotating 180 degrees will require rewiring the Aria. The excess wire leads must be coiled up inside the electrical box.

In our case, we had so much difficulty getting the camera to work that I ended up removing and re-installing the camera numerous times trying different mounting orientations. I had to disconnect the electrical connections each time and move the wires from one side of the mounting bracket to the other.

IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT GROUNDING THE ELECTRICAL BOX: Note that the installation instructions that come with the Aria only show the three wires attached to each other (black is hot, white is neutral, and green/copper is the ground). However, when using a metal electrical box, the code requires the ground wire to also be directly attached to the box (thus grounding the box). This was done by connecting a third short length of copper wire (of equivalent gauge; #14 AWG in our case) to the other two ground wires (using a wire nut that is larger than the ones provided) and securing this third wire to the box with a screw as shown in the photo above. If you have an existing floodlight with a metal box, it should already be grounded, and if it isn’t, you should contact an electrician to do this and to check the circuit. If the electrical box is plastic, it is not necessary to ground the box. In our case, since we installed a new metal box, we had to install the ground.

Now the Aria mounting base can be installed, taking care to be sure it is oriented in the correct direction and sealed against the gasket. It is held in place with a single mounting screw that is provided and attaches to the center of the mounting bracket. Now you are ready to attach the Aria to the mounting base. This is the reverse of the removal steps; it clicks into place on one side and the mounting base screw is installed on the opposite side.

We later adjusted the camera and floodlights so that the floodlights weren’t obstructing the PIR motion sensor in an effort to improve people detection.

Once the Aria was powered on, the LED status light was initially a solid red light indicating that the Aria was booting up. It then started to double blink blue indicating that it was ready to pair.



At this point, you’ll install the Momentum app and set up an account. Because I reviewed the Momentum Niro Garage Door Controller and Camera earlier this year, I already had the app installed and an account set up. After that, with the app open, I tapped on the menu icon located in the upper left corner of the app Dashboard, tapped on “Pair device”, selected “Aria” from the list, then followed the prompts from the app.




The prompts take you step-by-step through the physical installation of the Aria that we already described above.



After the installation steps, the app prompted me to connect to the Aria so that it could detect my network and I could log into it. When my network was discovered, I entered my password. After which, the Aria should have been connected to our home WiFi network. I had difficulty with this last step.

After several resets (the reset process is shown in the screenshot above) and cycling the power to the Aria, I discovered that the problem was that I needed to have a dedicated 2.4 GHz network for Aria to log into. I have a dual band router in which I used the same Service Set Identifier (SSID – which is the technical term for the network’s name) and password for both bands. I REALLY didn’t want to create a different name and password for one of my bands to separate them. I have about 40 devices logged into that single SSID. I really didn’t want to have to log 20 of my devices into a new SSID with a new password, all because of just ONE device (about half of my devices use the 2.4 GHz band and the other half use the 5 GHz band). I have several other 2.4 GHz devices that have successfully logged onto my single SSID dual-band WiFi network without issues.

So, instead, I set up a 2.4 GHz guest network on my router just to test if this was the issue. Indeed, the Aria does need a dedicated 2.4 GHz band network to log into. So for now, the Aria will stay there all by itself on my guest network because it wouldn’t play nice. It’s interesting because I have the Momentum Niro Garage Door Controller and Camera which has the ability to use either 2.4 GHz or 5 GHz which made installing the Niro a breeze, but for some reason, they did not give this capability to the Aria.

Performance


Once the Aria was logged into my guest network, I needed to add it to my Dashboard. I did this by tapping on the “+” or “Add” tile (left screenshot above) which gave me the list of new devices to add. The Aria has a camera, floodlight (floodlight icon), and siren tile (bell icon) that I added to the Dashboard. You can rearrange your dashboard by tapping on the pencil icon located in the upper right corner of the Dashboard and then save it when you are satisfied.

At this point, I want to provide a brief explanation of things that were happening as I used the Aria. I will go into a little more detail about them later after I have described to you the app settings for the Aria and the app features and how they work (which will make the detailed explanation more understandable). We used the Aria for a little while to see how it handled motion events. Initially, we found that it didn’t work at all. We tried adjusting the camera, the settings, etc. but nothing seemed to work, so we ended up rotating the whole Aria assembly to see if that would help (this required doing the wiring again). It definitely seemed to help because we started to get all kinds of notifications for all the cars driving by our house but very few, if any, of the people in our driveway or yard. At this point, I started writing the review but continued to troubleshoot the motion event problems.

Creating and using rules

In order for the Aria to give you notifications that a motion was detected and automatically record that motion event, you MUST create a rule. But before you create a rule, you must first sync the Aria to your phone’s time (which will be discussed in the next section). To create a rule, you tap on the Rule tile (you can also get to Rules from the Menu).





To add a new rule, you’ll need to tap on the “+” icon in the upper right corner of the Rules screen. Tap on the device you want to work with (the Aria with a black dot next to it), select the triggers (actually, the triggers are already selected and cannot be unselected), select the days you want the rule to run, select the time during a day you want the rule to run, and then save the rule. Now when your Aria detects motion, it will record a video on all the days you selected during the times you selected and furnish you with notifications of each motion event.

Aria settings



When you tap on the Aria camera tile on the app dashboard, it brings up the live video. You can get to the Aria settings by tapping on the gear icon located in the upper right corner of the live video screen (shown in the first screenshot above). From the settings, you have four tabs at the top: General, Camera, Siren, and Light as shown in the last screenshot above.

General settings: In the General settings, you can change the device name, see the network that the Aria is logged into, sync the Aria to your phone’s time, restart the device, or perform a factory reset of the Aria.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Apparently, you MUST tap on “Sync to Phone Time” before you create a rule for the Aria camera in order to get a more accurate Activities list (list of motions events, manual recordings, and manual capture of photos). If you do not sync to your phone’s time before you create a rule, the Activites list will only show some of the activities.

Although this improved the list of motions detected, I know for a fact that while my husband was working in the driveway, it was not detecting and recording his motions. I received a gazillion motion notifications for cars but only a couple for my husband who was working in the driveway and our yard. That’s absolutely ridiculous. I want my Aria, which is a security device, to be able to tell me when it detects people on my property.


Camera settings: The Camera settings tab allows you to adjust the settings on whether or not to display the camera feed, set the image quality (low, medium, or high), flip the image (upside down), set night vision to “On”, “Off”, or “Auto”, change the sensitivity of the motion detector (off, low, med-low, med-high, or high), edit motion zones, and view the micro SD card backup or format the micro SD card.

The right screenshot above shows the motion zones that I set. The areas in blue are the actively monitored zones. Notice that the road in front of my house was not in an active zone because I didn’t want notifications of the cars driving by my house.

Now, notice how the Aria completely ignored my motion zones settings and recorded this car driving by during the day…

…and another car at night. These are just two of the many, many recordings that I have. I have so many that I don’t even want to count them. I even had the motion sensitivity set on its lowest setting when these videos were recorded.

The video quality of the recordings during the day and night are wonderful. I just don’t want to receive notifications and recordings of every car that drives by my house. What I really want are motion notifications when people enter my yard or driveway, which I was not receiving.

Siren settings: You can set the siren to go off for particular durations: 5 seconds, 10 seconds, 15 seconds, 30 seconds, 1 minute, 2 minutes, or 5 minutes. I set mine for 5 seconds.


Floodlight settings: You can set the duration that the floodlight will stay on when motion is detected and you can select the floodlight active areas as shown in the last screenshot above. I set the floodlight to stay on for 2 minutes when motion is detected and for it to detect all sensor detection areas (1, 2, and 3 shown in the right screenshot above) using the highest motion sensor detection sensitivity.

Aria camera tile

When you tap on the Aria camera tile, it brings up the live video stream which may be accessed from anywhere. I noticed that the live video was a little choppy probably because of a weaker internet connection. The Aria is one of our devices that is furthest away from our router (which is why the Aria needs the 2.4 GHz band because it has the furthest reach of the two bands).

Eye icon: In the upper right corner of the live video screen below the gear icon, there is an eye icon. Tapping on this turns off the camera for privacy. This worked well.

Speaker icon: Also in the upper right corner is a speaker icon. Tapping on this allows you to hear the sounds being picked up by the camera’s microphone. This worked well.

Floodlight button: At the bottom of the live video screen, you’ll see six buttons: the floodlight (floodlight icon), siren (bell icon), talk (microphone icon), recording (recording icon), photo capture (camera icon), and activities (circular arrow/clock icon) buttons. The first one is the floodlight button. You can tap on it to manually to turn on the floodlight then tap on it again to turn it off. This worked well.

Siren button: You can tap on the siren button (bell icon) to sound off the siren which brings up an alert asking you if you are sure you want to sound the Emergency Siren (shown in the screenshot above). You may tap on “Yes” or “Cancel”. To turn off the siren all you need to do is tap on the siren button again (bell icon). Thankfully, the siren is not as loud as I thought it would be. I don’t think it is enough to bother the neighbors but it is enough to startle and scare away intruders. This worked well.

Talk button: You may tap on the Talk button to talk to the person that you see on the camera, but you must tap it again to listen to them. When you use this button, there is a delay, so you must tell the person to wait for a couple of seconds or so in order to provide enough time for the microphone to turn off to hear what they have to say. I could hear the person on the camera’s live view, but the audio was a little choppy (maybe due to weaker internet connection?). And the person in front of the camera stated that I could be heard but that there were some static sounds in the background.

Record button: Next is the Record button. By tapping on this button, you can manually record the live video, but you are given only 20 seconds of time before the recording ends automatically. Otherwise, this seemed to work well.

Camera button: By tapping on the Camera button you can capture a photo of the live video. This too seemed to work well.

Activities button: And last, to view all of the Aria’s activities (recordings and photos), you can tap on the Activities button on the live video screen or the Activities tile on the Dashboard.

Floodlight tile


When you tap on the Floodlight tile from the Dashboard of the Momentum app, it turns on the floodlight. It also allows you to adjust the intensity of the light. Observe how the floodlight tile in the right screenshot above is split into two shades of yellow. You can adjust the intensity by sliding the line dividing the shades of yellow up or down, or you can tap on the up or down arrows located in the upper right corner and lower right corner of the tile. To turn off the floodlight, just tap on the tile again. When I was testing this feature, I noticed that there was a delay of about two seconds before the floodlight responded to my adjustments.

Siren tile


When you tap on the Siren tile (bell icon), it brings up a screen that has selected “All sirens” and “Aria”. There really is no selection here. If you try to unselect one, it unselects the other. So when the sirens are selected, by tapping on “Continue” the siren will sound until you tap on the Dashboard’s Siren tile again. There’s a split second delay when tapping on the tile again to turn off the siren, but otherwise, it seemed very responsive.

Aria impressions

Initially, when we installed the Aria, it wouldn’t even detect cars when it was set at the highest motion detection sensitivity and all of the motion zones were active. We then rotated the whole Aria assembly 180 degrees to see if that was the problem (this process required us to do the wiring again). The Aria then seemed to work, but only for detecting every single car that drove by. It wasn’t detecting people. In addition, the automatic motion event recordings were not always backed up on the micro SD card that we’ve inserted in the camera. Even though we have the Lite subscription service which will store 24 hours of video for free, I like having the recordings backed up on the micro SD card so that if I want to, I can view the video later. I wrote the review at this point but continued to try to troubleshoot the device to try to get it to detect people.

In my troubleshooting process, I adjusted several app settings like the motion zones and motion detection sensitivity, I adjusted the floodlights and camera up and down and all around, I cycled the power to the Aria, I reset the device and performed the whole app setup again, I deleted the app cache and user data, all without success. Thus, we decided to try to rotate the whole Aria assembly 180 degrees again. This resulted in the Aria not working at all, even though we tried everything again. So we rotated the whole setup 180 degrees again. Nothing worked. No motions were detected unless you were essentially right in front of the camera. So our Aria no longer detects motions in any physical setup or in any app setup. The only thing we can do now is observe the live video, manually take photos and recordings of the live video, and turn on the floodlight and siren. I’m thinking we might have a dud which might not be a true representation of the working product.

What I like

  • Live video can be accessed from anywhere
  • The quality of the video recordings during the day and night is excellent
  • It’s a soffit mounted floodlight (Aria has a wall-mounted floodlight as well so be careful to select the one you need when you are ordering)

What needs to be improved

  • Make it compatible with both 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz bands
  • Make the soffit mount Aria sensitive to motions no matter what its orientation is when installed
  • Make the arm of the camera longer so that the floodlights do not impede the camera’s view or the PIR sensor
  • Implement artificial intelligence (AI) to tell the difference between people, animals, and cars
  • Back up all activities on the micro SD card (some activities were missing on the SD card)

Final thoughts

Initially, when we installed the Momentum Aria LED Floodlight with WiFi Camera, I struggled to get it connected to my network because I use one SSID and password for my dual band router. The Aria needs a dedicated 2.4 GHz band network to log into so I created a 2.4 GHz guest network for it to log into. And once it was set up in the Momentum app, it wouldn’t even detect cars until we rotated the entire Aria assembly 180 degrees (this process required us to do the whole physical set up again, wiring and all).

The Aria then detected all the cars that drove by no matter what the motion sensitivity settings were or how we set up the motion zones. It detected cars driving by but did not detect people. I really wish Momentum would implement AI to help tell the difference among people, animals, and cars so that I can eliminate useless notifications. In addition to the aforementioned problems, not all of the motion event recordings were backed up on the micro SD card that we’ve inserted in the camera.

This was the best we could ever get the Aria to work. We kept trying all kinds of things like rotating the Aria assembly again and again but without success and now the Aria no longer detects motions unless you are almost right in front of the camera. It will still allow you to view the live video (which looks great) and record and capture photos of the live video. At this point, I think that we have a dud that needs to be replaced. Thus our experience may not be representative of a working product.

NOTE: The Aria comes in two configurations: the wall mount version and the soffit mount version. We used the soffit mount version in this review. In this configuration, the camera and floodlights are mounted on adjustable joints with wingnuts in order to adapt the Aria to the horizontal soffit mount position.

Price: $168.88 – $179.00
Where to buy: Amazon or Momentum
Source: The sample of this product was provided by Momentum.

Filed in categories: Reviews

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Momentum Aria LED Floodlight with WiFi Camera review originally appeared on The Gadgeteer on December 26, 2018 at 9:00 am.

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